The five parts of a perfect sawmill job

1. Logs / cut list

A good cut list contains the length, height, width, species and quantity of boards you need. I can mill any type of wood as long as your logs are within the size limits of my mill: 20’ cut length / 32” log diameter / 26” cut width.

2. A flat, accessible, place to set up the mill

My mill is a 25’ long trailer that loads logs from the right when looking at it from the tongue. It will need ~12’ of space side to side plus a few feet for a sawdust pile. Please send multiple pictures of your logs / location to (864) 784-4947

3. A way to get your logs to the mill / handle large pieces of lumber

Neatly stacked logs can simply be rolled to the mill with my cant hooks and the mill can lift them onto itself. I can sometimes move logs with my truck / winch. It’s not always required, but equipment is very useful for moving logs, moving heavy pieces of lumber, preparing flat stack locations, and cleanup. I can bring a skidsteer to your site, if needed. mooremilling.com/skidsteer

4. Somewhere to stack the finished lumber

Finished lumber should be separated with stickers, ~1x1” “sticks” placed between layers of stacked lumber to minimize staining and warping during drying. You may also want ~4x4” supports for the stack to rest on. I can mill all the stickers and supports you’ll need but stickers milled from your logs will be wet and might stain your lumber and you may not want to use your valuable logs for stickers / supports. Alternatively, you can buy untreated 1x2s, rip material on a table saw beforehand, or have me rip the material on my sawmill. You’ll want the finished lumber to be stored under a shed, tarps, or tin where good airflow is available.

5. Offloaders and Stackers

Ideally, there are at least two people not including myself dedicated to offloading the mill and stacking finished lumber. Most of my clients take up this role along with a son / nephew / father / friend.